A notification was delivered to my phone by the German football publication Kicker. “Dynamo Dresden wird im Pokal RB Leipzig empfängen”, translated, Dynamo Dresden will host RB Leipzig in the Cup. For perspectives sake, Kicker seldom put out notifications. Secondly, the two teams have just been promoted from the second and third divisions. However, this clash wasn’t about two powerhouse teams being drawn in the cup. Rather two clubs from Saxony with two very different paths to this draw.

The Clubs History

Dynamo Dresden, a dominant force under the communist East German regime, winning numerous league titles and cups. In their pomp they won a significant number of titles and cups in the 1970’s, making significant progress in European competition. Despite being selected in the Bundesliga after the fall of the wall, subsequent relegations and financial issues, including the chairman syphoning off 3m Deutsche Marks, put Dynamo Dresden into the lower reaches of the German football structure, despite continued hardcore support. In the last few years, the club had begun to stabilise in the professional leagues.

A fan made shirt in protest to RB Leipzig.

Red Bull, the energy drink organisation, were wanting to build a global network of football clubs to improve the visibility of their brand, and to utilise global expertise to grow talent. Although success in the US with New York Red Bull and to a lesser extent in their home country Austria with RB Salzburg, a team in a major European league was missing. There were several attempts within the Bundesliga, including Frankfurt and Düsseldorf, in a search for a club. However, there was absolute strong fan opposition, killing the idea before the boards could even talk. This is where Leipzig, an East German city of 500,000 inhabitants comes in. With no major football team to speak of, Red Bull acquired a struggling team, SVV Markrandstädt, in the 5th tier of German football. They flexed their financial muscle to bring in better players and improve the facilities, whilst also renaming and rebranding the team, eventually climbing the leagues. The entire process was met with the dissatisfaction of the football supporting public of Germany, a country very proud of its famous fan based 50+1 ownership model. RB Leipzig produced huge boundaries to member ownership, by charging extortionate prices. The spring of 2016 saw RB Leipzig achieve a significant milestone, promotion to the Bundesliga.

The German Cup system is quite unique, with the first round being played the week before the 1. Bundesliga kicks off. The draw seeds higher placed teams (those in the Bundesliga and those who finished in the top half of the 2. Bundesliga) drawn away, the lower teams at home. RB Leipzig the higher placed team, Dynamo Dresden the lower.

Outside view of the DDV Stadium.

This fixture, seeing two teams (and I am careful not to use the term rivals here) located in two cities that form a very passionate distinct region in former East Germany. This game was traditional football vs modern football. The communist past vs a capitalist future. Culture vs commerce. I can imagine a high proportion of readers are against modern football, and RB Leipzig are a contender for the crown for King.

The daunting Police riot vehicles. Don’t mess.

A Blank Weekend

The weekend approaching and no plans, I was wistfully looking for a game to attend, noticing again this thumper. After seeing there was a resale that very day, I prepared myself for some F5 bashing and the insipid server error messages. Unbelievably within 5 minutes, I was 22€ down, but with a match ticket! Game on!

After checking into my accommodation in Dresden, I took one of the free dilapidated bikes, then set off for the stadium just a few kilometres away. I joyfully flew over the river Elbe, this hot August day providing clear views. Ahead I noticed a huge fare and some steamboats piping their horns as they sculled along the river. In the distance a wonderfully ornate cityscape, old gothic towers and domes rising from the skyline by the river. Sumptuous!

My advance to the stadium was confirmed by the ever increasing number of football fans clad in dark yellow/amber. An initiative by the club to get everyone to turn up in their colours clearly having the desired effect. I parked my bike and headed into to “Torwirtschaft”, a lovely beer garden, with plenty of the amber stuff flowing, contravened with some awful Europop music blaring out. The stuff you can imagine blaring from a Vauxhall on a housing estate in Slough. Once refreshed, I toured around the simple, yet symmetrically designed stadium, hoping to get a view of the hated RB Leipzig fans, but alas, the Police were on top form, as were their mad max style “Hun” vehicles.

The home of Dynamo Dresden – DDV Stadium

Before entering through my gate, I noticed, if I wanted, that I could get through to the infamous K-Block, home to the hardened Dynamo Dresden fans. Once in, I got my standard stadium card to fuel the beer, topping the card up with 9€, enough for three beers. I wondered onto the terraced K-Block just before kick-off, where absolute carnage ensued; the fans loud in volume and passion. I decided to take my allocated seat for the first half as there was nowhere to stand, then get onto the terrace early for the second half, but my seat gave me a great view of the K-Block.

RB Leipzig hounded as they exited, the noise at kicked off venomous and spiteful. The number of banners raised showing their disgust at this club was phenomenal. For me, the choreography of the well organised K-Block, several thousand fans crammed onto that terrace, was more interesting than the game. The K-Block were like charmed snakes, the charmer, front and centre, two big drummers either side, driving the rhythm and pace! Goosebumps emerged for long periods during more thunderous parts of the Ultras display.

The K-Block of the Dynamo Dresden fans were in colourful voice and spirit.

Regarding the game, Dynamo Dresden had the better chance, a volley whistling past the post, the goalkeeper lost; the volume increased. RB Leipzig took the lead, a simple cross glanced past a badly placed keeper, the fans retorted, but alas, it wasn’t as fearsome as before. The scarves, flags and word banners kept appearing. The half was closing out, the volume had ascended to previous Goosebumps producing levels when an innocuous handball (incredibly well spotted by the assistant) lead to RB Leipzig winning a penalty, which was calmly converting. 2-0 down. Half time. A job on to salvage this tie.

I topped up on beer, whilst my card reduced, and meandered onto the terrace. I got there just in time for the start of the second half, and just in time for an early penalty to Dynamo Dresden. Cheaply given away at the edge of the box, the captain under no pressure to concede the foul.

The tension was taught, emotions high, several fans not able to look on as the player approached and dispatched the kick. A gentle relief from the fans was exhaled in a crescendo of noise. Penalty converted.

The volume now consistently loud and fearsome, the Dresden fans with more spirit and fight since the goal, and being in the terrace, there was a lot more activity around me. Fan banners were unwound to be launched and timed to antagonise, before being wastefully thrown onto the floor as the next insult was unwound.

The K-Block Fan Culture

RB Leipzig didn’t hesitate to trade insults, reaching to Dynamo Dresden’s industrial heritage. There were teenagers going around selling the latest fan culture stickers for fans to buy. Negotiating quantity and prices. Even the choreographing of the crowd was more detailed than just the one snake charmer and drummer. In addition were several guys with megaphones placed deep within the crowd to give certain sections of the terrace instructions for singing, or movements for forthcoming chants.

All the abuse and hatred written out on paper.

Whilst engrossing myself in the surrounding fan culture, the game was becoming more intense, the fans roaring behind Dynamo Dresden. The RB Leipzig players had to take corners in front of this vicious hospitality of the K-Block, with the stewards coming in with umbrellas to stop the onslaught of lighters, beer and other miscellaneous objects.

As the time ticked onwards, the noise and veracity seemed to increase. The will to get something from this was in the air and noise of these baying hounds. And Dynamo Dresden were building sufficient pressure, controlling the game, the two league games showing in sharpness and fitness.

Some change in players occurred, my mind not focused on the potential tactical changes, more admiration of the activity around me and keeping an eye on the action on the field. Dresden seeing more of the ball and retaining it better. A half chance wasted. Another materialised, the player through on the edge of the box, keeper to beat…. TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORRRRRR!!!! A moment of Bewilderment, before off the hook celebrations. I was hugged by strangers. Beer rained down from above. Scarves and banners lofted into the air and frantically waved, the excitement powered through smoky lungs into a bellowing noise. 74 minutes on the clock. The terrace settled into a constant chant, a rather catchy ditty to Scooter – Ramp! (The Logical Song) getting a particular airing. The nervousness portrayed through bravado and gusto.

Both teams played out the game, nerves evident. RB Leipzig had the best chance of the remaining minutes, a looping header tipped over by the desperate gloved fingertips of the Dresden keeper. Normal time ended. The game going into extra time, and if things remained level, then the dreaded penalty shootout.

The Dresden fans remained vocal and boisterous, tension engulfed the stands as RB Leipzig scored a goal, but the Assistants flag was raised for offside. A collective “phew” rippled across the stands. After 120 minutes, we now headed to the dreaded penalties.

A sneaked shot of the view from the K-Block in the DDV Stadion.

The Penalty Kicks

RB Leipzig won the toss, taking spot kicks at the opposite end of the stadium, away from the dark Dynamo Dresden fans. Tension ensued as the spot kicks were scored back and forth, until the fourth. Captain, and scorer of the penalty in normal time for RB Leipzig, Dominik Kaiser, punted a poor shot with the keeper able to parry the ball away. Delirious scenes of exhilarated and exuberated fans, only for the reality. Dynamo Dresden must now convert their penalty to make it meaningful, which Brentford loanee Akaki Gogia did so.

Down to the last two penalties, and RB Leipzig had to… converted. The sea of yellow fans in the stadium on primed Tenterhooks. Swathes of fans around me turned away. Fingernails bitten and chewed. Eyes closed. Prayers being said to Gods unknown. Desperate deep, searching looks into the warm summer sky. The dream of beating the capitalists! For Dynamo Dresden, East German cup winners 7 times, to proceed to the next round would be dreamy. With baited breath, the stadium waited. The RB fans riled and noisy, in an attempt to distract the Dynamo Dresden player… Aias Aosman. He starts his run up, connects with the ball…. TOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! Dresden have done it! RB Leipzig; Mr Anti-football, defeated in the home of their Sachsen neighbours. The players and playing staff pile-on onto the goal scorer, Aosam. The eruption of noise and celebration on the terrace just incredible, pure jubilation. Phenomenal atmosphere.

Soon after the German tradition of players celebrating with the supporters got underway. However, this was different from normal. The players lay down on the playing surface. In the stands, the quietest it had been all day, everyone seated or settled down on their haunches, sweaty in the victory. The announcer at the front, producing some lyrical mastery, enjoying the victory. Several of the players started to stretch their tired muscles: 120 minutes and the tension of penalties enough to begin treatment.

Eventually, the celebrations and thanks of the supporters began, the singing and cheering, the raising of arms in thanks from both players and supporters continued for some time. I eventually left my ecstatic new friends on the terrace, walking from the K-Block, taking one last look back… I noticed Goosebumps on my warm sweaty skin, I was unaware of how long they had been there.

I went back to the “Torwirtschaft” for another beer, the yellow-clad supporters obviously buoyant, the mood bubbly. After finishing my beer, I found my bike, and made a looping route back to my accommodation, a neat, tidy and friendly hostel, Lollis Homestay, in the heart of the relaxed, bohemian and dare I say it, hipster, area Neustadt.

A view of the city from across the River Elbe… truely Elbflorenz!

The City of Dresden – Elbflorenz

I went out by foot in the evening, going to a traditional Saxon restaurant for my evening meal. A delicious stack of varied meats with horseradish and bread with a decent amount of vegetables to boot, all washed down with a local pilsner in the cooling evening air. I wondered in and around the city’s annual festival, Stadtfest. It was in full flow, a combination of terrible music, great smelling food and cool refreshing beer. Perfect!

Touring the city during the evening, basked in the lights illuminating the prestigious buildings through the Altstadt (old town), and the bright sunlight of day, I was amazed at how beautiful the city was, before thinking: I wonder how this city was before the 1940’s where air raids left the city a flat mess. I wonder if the same can be said of Coventry. In the Scooter chant, Dynamo Dresden supporters sing of Dresden as “the Elbflorenz”: The Florence of the River Elbe, and I cannot disagree.

As I settled in my bus seat to leave Dresden, a notification appeared on my phone. Apparently a severed Bulls head, no irony lost with it being of a red Hereford or red Angus, had been thrown from the K-Block during the game (link in English). The hostility and anger displayed towards this franchise a notch more than British football has seen with MK Dons. Dynamo had won my heart, Dresden my soul.